Knob Creek 9 Years Old—Comeback is better than the setback.
/At first glance, it seems crazy to call Knob Creek 9 an underrated Bourbon. It’s been a successful brand for decades. And yet, the newly released 9 Year Old is a more modern take on Bourbon, especially when compared to the one discontinued in 2016. That’s my take. It’s going to gather even more fans.
To understand this new release, let’s take it back a few years. Knob Creek was introduced in 1992. It’s the same recipe as Jim Beam, Booker’s, and most other Jim Beam products (but for the high-rye recipes like Basil Hayden). However, Jim Beam distinguishes the product lines based on age and barrel selection (consistent with the rest of Kentucky).
It’s about barrel selection.
Each distillery has their own way of distinguishing between product lines, since the recipe used is often the same. In the case of Jim Beam, it’s about where the barrels mature in the warehouse. Knob Creek barrels mature in the “middle-cut” of the warehouse where the temperature is most consistent (not too hot, not too cold, just right). By contrast, Booker’s frames the warehouse, where the conditions are extreme to maximize oak extraction.
Warehouses have an atmosphere. The effects on the barrel change based on where the barrel is located within the warehouse. Drier parts of the warehouse cause more water extraction, which ups the alcohol percentage of the whisky (Booker’s). Hot temperatures place more stress on the barrel, as does an extreme range of temperature throughout the year. Knob Creek is that cozy middle of the warehouse. It’s consistently great.
During the whiskey boom of the 2010s, Kentucky Distilleries were unprepared for the demand. Most ‘standard’ bourbon products are matured for 4 years. Distilleries quickly rerouted their barrels to keep the mass-volume brands on shelves. Products like Knob Creek lost their age statements—there weren’t enough aged barrels to maintain them.
Jim Beam could no longer commit to a nine year old Knob Creek, but the no-age statement variety didn’t taste all that different from the product it replaced (though opinions on this will differ). This happened back in 2016. By that time, Bourbon fans were used to this plot line of lost age statements. All things considered (I’m sure Jim Beam would disagree with me here), this seemed to go relatively unnoticed by the premium loving whisky community.
Part of the thing is, Knob Creek held a middle-ground within the Jim Beam portfolio. It’s their “premium cocktail” Bourbon. It goes something like this 1) Booker’s is high octane/high proof. 2) Basil Hayden is soft flavors at a big price. 3) Baker’s is often overlooked, high-proof and nuttier in flavor. And Knob Creek, is the fun versatile one!
The comeback is better than the setback (for age statements).
Now, here’s some confession time—I wasn’t a big fan of the 9 year old Knob Creek back in the day. I felt it was too ‘thin’ on the palate by comparison to others in the same price category. This was an older style Bourbon. It wasn’t a drink I’d reach for often as a sipper. It definitely sat more on the ‘mix for cocktails’ side of my whisky cabinet.
The new Knob Creek 9 Year Old is that sipper I want. Sure, yes, definitely mix it in with your high-end cocktails but don’t discount it as a sipping Bourbon. Have it on ice on a warm day, etc.. Drink it neat.
More than that, though, it’s a real terrific value when compared to ultra-high-end Bourbons that are often either missing in storefront shelves (I’m looking at you Blanton’s!) or way overpriced by liquor stores because of the lack of supply (also you, Blanton’s). Knob Creek will help offset some of the demand balance.
Knob Creek has character. It has that flavor people chase.
Let’s talk about flavor. After a decade of tasting high-end Bourbon, I’ve come to learn some flavors people chase. One of them, I often describe as the “boozy cherry note.” Some might call this flavor component nutmeg and dark fruits, others simply say cherry, but regardless, many of the popular Bourbons that I, personally, like have this flavor profile. It seems universally enjoyed.
It comes through (seemingly) more easily in wheated Bourbons like Weller, but it’s also present in older Bourbons and Ryes. What gives us that flavor? Maybe this used to be a mystery, but I think the folks at Jim Beam have it figured out.
Knob Creek 9 has it. Furthermore, this is just the beginning. The folks at Jim Beam added a 12 Year Old and 15 Year Old to the lineup. Both are terrific. I’ll review them later.
What’s my favorite Bourbon? The one I can actually buy. Knob Creek 9 is on that level of delicious. And it’s available. I like what the folks of Jim Beam are doing here. This is another long-winded way of saying, the new Knob Creek 9 is better-than-ever.
Knob Creek 9 Year Old Review
Distillery: Jim Beam
Category: Bourbon
Score: 89
Nose: Hardwood, varnish, boozy dark fruits, fresh pencil shavings. Those are the initial notes. There’s a nice dark chocolate note that wafts to the forefront given time, vanilla bitters, and notes of freshly roasted coffee beans.
Palate: Nice dark fruit sweetness, brown sugar, and plenty of oak spice. The transition from fruity sweetness, to brown sugar, to spicy is pleasant. The oak tannins are intense at first, but they settle as the whisky rests in the glass. There’s a nice distant boozy cherry note. The finish is peppery but mingles nicely with the sweeter notes of the Bourbon.
Conclusion: I really like this. I feel like Knob Creek was never quite sure if it wanted to be a high-end cocktail mixing whisky, or a sipping whisky, and I feel this Knob Creek has picked a direction—it’s a sipping whisky, that makes a terrific ingredient in a cocktail. Knob Creek has found a new home in the lux Jim Beam line-up, and at the current price-point, it’s aggressively priced when compared to other products in this segment and the demands for those products. Time to pick up some bottles.
Disclosure: The bottle was sent to me without obligation. This review, including tasting notes, opinions, and scoring, is entirely by own.